When it comes to finding good calamari, there's no place like Southern Rhode Island

Olivia Priest, left, and Brianna Leite share a plate of "Point Judith Calamari" at Plum Pt. Bistro.

Reports on the delights of calamari’s savory sensations in South County are as numerous as rival restaurants.

Despite squid coming in over 300 varieties deep in the water where few gourmets go, this cephalopod on the plate is prepared in many different ways to the pleasure of scores of residents and tourists.

Some want it with Thai chili or balsamic reduction while others like it with marinara sauce. There are also Giovanni and Buffalo styles. Bring on the fried capers and hot peppers, say some folks and some devotees simply prefer the squid on a bed of fresh arugula with lemon.

Don’t forget the tentacles — some want more over the rings. Lightly fried, according to some devotees, is better than deep fried. Crispy is great and the list goes on except for one thing repeated often.

“If a restaurant serves me rubbery or tough calamari, I’ll never order it there again — one strike and you’re out,” said Annie Davidson Babineau. “So I’m super picky because I’ve had a lot of poorly prepared calamari. I order it almost every time I get seafood at a restaurant.”

Indeed, finicky can be used to describe aficionados of this seafood high in umami — the flavor associated with savoriness. It typically has 146 milligrams of glutamates, the source of umami in squid, should you want to know its hidden secret.

Known for its firm, mildly sweet flesh, and chewy texture, it doesn’t have a “fishy” taste. It can have a sweet and mild flavor. The meat of squid when cooked should be firm and mild, say executive and sous chefs who prepare this often-ordered appetizer.

“We have calamari at least twice a month,” said Mickie Harrington-Rodway.

Harrington-Rodway isn’t alone and those who add the dish to their regular diet get a lot more than taste with each meal. High in protein — there are 18 grams in a four-ounce serving — calamari also brings benefits of omega-3 fatty acids in fish oil for heart health, especially docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) that is higher in squid and is shown to improve resting heart rate and reduce platelet aggregation for women.

Squid produces a big catch that fulfills a huge appetite for scrumptious calamari whose name has an Italian origin in “calamaro,” meaning squid served as food, say many suppliers and restauranteurs.

So, just how popular is this dish?

At Narragansett’s Trio, corporate Executive Chef Greg Coccio said he uses roughly 3,000 pounds of calamari a year and “calamari is our number one appetizer; it exceeds the rest of our apps by about 50%.”

The Harvest and History

In 2021, the harvest cumulative landing of squid was 23,024,997 pounds. The 2020 harvest was reported to have a total quota landed at about 20,434,501 pounds compared to 27,213,341 pounds in 2019.

Just over in Galilee is Town Dock, a family-owned company. It is one of the largest calamari suppliers in the United States and a key player in the international marketplace. It works with a dedicated partner fleet of fishing vessels, local fishermen and global suppliers.

“Our expanded and redesigned retail offering allows us to better connect with home chefs, giving them easy access to responsibly sourced and delicious calamari along with great recipes to make in the comfort of their own kitchens,” said Ryan Clark, president of The Town Dock, in an interview last year.

On its website, Town Dock reports that until the early 1980s, calamari was a lot like caviar is today — offered in expensive restaurants and not a menu item commonly found in restaurants catering to the middle class.

“By 1985, fried calamari was being mentioned throughout various forms of mass media, and its previous label as a dish only for the fortunate slowly dissipated,” the site said of squid’s growing populating in the frying pan.

“By 1996, calamari was relabeled as one of the most popular ‘trendy’ foods available to consumers. During this time, calamari competed with other popular foods such as tuna tartare, ramen, and short ribs, all of which were also labeled as hip, progressive foods,” the wholesaler and retailer said.

Narragansett even has an annual calamari festival … hopefully without Dionysian disorder and intoxication, but with emotion, ecstasy and unity around this state’s favorite appetizer.

The event, scheduled for September 16 this year, even has a “cook-off” for judging favorites prepared by area restaurants who will dish up their specialties.

Compelled by this squid’s popularity to be eaten rather than kept as a pet, Rhode Island native and author Carolyn Wyman gave a nod in her recent book “The Great Clam Cake and Fritter Guide.” Calamari got a mention amid 155 pages devoted to lard and oil-deep fried tasty balls of dough and clam morsels.

Most evident, though, is its consistent listing on local restaurant menus to meet a recurring demand for it, as Trio’s Coccio pointed out. Local diners also verify that evidence with compliments for many favorite places to enjoy this creature from the sea.

Tammy Grant on a South Kingstown social media site said, “I recently had calamari at the Ocean Mist (in Matunuck). I was pleasantly surprised. O’Mist is well known for its breakfast and Mexican food so I felt like I was taking a chance. By far, one of the best. There were many rings and not tentacles.”

Another devotee of squid, Carol DePetrillo, put it simply, “Greek calamari at PJ’s Narragansett.”

A thumbs-up came from Marcia Comorosky for a North Kingstown restaurant and she said, “Wickford on the Water — delicious. The best I’ve ever had.”

Going to Theatre By the Sea this summer? Hit Bravo By The Sea, which Executive Chef and co-owner Ryan Field reopened this year on the grounds. You’ll find the dish on the menu wonderfully prepared before any musical performance or if you are just out for dinner.

Another restaurant frequently mentioned during an informal survey of local opinion about the consistency of preparation both during the tourist and off-season was Plum Point Bistro in Saunderstown.

“Our calamari is one of our most popular items. I think the history behind it is what makes it iconic,” said restaurant manager Zoe Conte.

Her parents, Ralph and Elisa Conte, opened predecessor Raphael’s restaurant in 1983. At the time calamari on menus was prepared in a traditional fried style and tossed with cherry pepper rings with a side of marinara.

“They wanted a modern take on an old tradition, hence the ‘Raphael’s Calamari’ was born, which is the same recipe we use today at Plum Point Bistro,” she said.

The Styles Served

“Our corn meal duster is what gives our calamari that signature crunch. After frying, we lightly toss our calamari in a house-made cherry pepper aioli. It’s presented with a side of house-made pickled onion,” Conte explained.

“We have many longtime customers that come to the bistro to get the ‘Raphael’s calamari’ almost 40 years later. I think that’s pretty special,” she said.

Conte added, “Rhode Island is definitely the calamari state! You think all of us would be sick of it by now ha-ha. For me personally, calamari reminds me of home, Rhode Island summers, the ocean, family, and friends. Sounds a little silly. But it’s truly kind of a comfort food.”

Autero Joe’s in Narragansett is another establishment often mentioned in a pulse-poll survey of opinions.

Owner Joe Paglia said, “Most people today like squid because some restaurants are using local squid caught off the New England coast. The squid caught in these areas are the best in the world.”

Many customers noted Autero Joe’s variety, which includes balsamic, Fra Diavolo, Giovanni, Greek that features feta cheese and black olives and upon request gluten-free.

Trio’s Coccio said his restaurant serves it flash-fried with banana pepper rings and tossed with garlic butter (RI style) as well as poached in the seafood cioppino.

He also agreed with the attraction to a local catch.

“We only use Point Judith-caught and processed calamari. Our calamari is very special and a large part of that is our local purveyor, Wild Atlantic Seafood. They own and operate a large fishing vessel out of Point Judith called the Karen Elizabeth,’” he said.

In Galilee, across the street from the Block Island Ferry and fishing boats that bring squid to shore for sale to restaurants, is Jimmy’s Port Side restaurant.

Owner James Petrella and his wife, Vanessa, prepare nearly every dish at their restaurant.

He said he buys local squid “which is called dirty and cleans it and preps it ourselves…We use both rings and tentacles. I personally love the tentacles the most. On how much we use I don’t kiss and tell but let’s say it’s astonishing.”

“Squid aka calamari is perfect in so many ways you can simmer it for hours in a sauce or flash fry it and both ways are super tender,” he said, adding, that customers frequently order his summer preparation.

“It’s lightly breaded and sautéed in garlic butter, banana peppers, red onion, cherry tomatoes with a splash of wine and freshly squeezed lemon then we hit it without house balsamic glaze,” he said.

Every food could be paired with a beverage. Like pizza and Asian food, suggestions are plentiful.

“A local brew, martini, or a specialty cocktail. Personally, I like a nice acidic white wine with anything fried, or maybe something with effervescence,” said Plum Point Bistro’s Conte.

Joe Viele, executive director of the Southern Rhode Island Chamber of Commerce and local resident for 40 years, also knows a bit about local calamari and promoting it.

“I think the reason that calamari is a true taste of Southern RI is that most restaurants carry it on their menu (and) is prepared many different ways,” said Viele who admits to eating a lot of local calamari.

“I am pleasantly surprised by the different recipes. There are so many good offerings in Southern Ri and I encourage everyone to try them all,” he said.

Write to Bill Seymour, freelance writer covering news and feature stories, at [email protected].

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